Travel Plans!

I just bought my first ticket! Overnight bus to Mendoza! After some wine tasting, busing it to Chile and staying until the 6th.

Then....

I'm breaking from the group and heading North on my own: Jujuy, Salta, then we'll see what happens.

I'm really freaking excited!

Yes, I had to buy another suitcase. A familiar story to most all exchange students I believe.

Leaving on Thursday!

I feel like this is sudden news. Where the heck did all the time go?! Once I noticed I had only a month left the days just flew by. It's currently 5:30am, I'm awake, thank you stress. I have spent the last two weeks working on papers and the deadlines are approaching...like tomorrow. I had my history exam today, nothing to demanding. As I think I've said before, studying here is different because there is nothing but lecture and discussion up until the final exam, which is usually either a paper or an in-class writing assignment. So if you aren't paying attention in the lectures, you aren't really going to make it. I consider myself to be procrastinator, but somehow this system has worked well for me. I managed to stay interested and engaged in the classes to absorb the material. I think this might have been my most successful college semester in terms of actually learning the material. I'm not sure if it's because the subjects are more interesting, or maybe the professors are more engaging. We did have only two or three students in class so the learning environment became very personal as the semester went along. But seriously, when I came here, I could not confidently write a sentence in Spanish, and tonight, I just finished a seven page paper in Spanish. I couldn't tell you anything about Latin American history or politics, and now I love it so much I'm changing my major. Leaps and bounds! I was just laying in bed as I couldn't sleep and I was speaking Spanish in my head. It's going to be so strange to go home and be suddenly surrounded by English speakers. I'm going to miss living in this language.

So yeah, going home. I'm excited and I'm sad. I'm sad to leave this place that I've grown to absolutely love. I've started feeling a bit like this is actually my home. I'm excited to see my family and friends and give them all their little treasures from Argentina. I'm sad to have to actually work again. This is the first time in my college career I haven't worked full-time while going to classes full-time. I could really get used to that. It makes school so much more manageable! I envy those whose parents pay for their college education. If that's you, please, thank your parents, right now, and every day, because you are blessed. I'm excited to eat certain foods believe it or not. I miss taco bell every once in awhile. I also miss pepper. I just kind of know that once the novelty wears off, and the depression sets in, I will miss this place even more. I'm not looking forward to that culture shock everyone warned me about.

However, I have a plan. A plan to combat my depression that is sure to come upon returning to Cleveland. When I realize that working still sucks, my boyfriend still dumped me, my family still gets on my nerves, I'm still completely broke, I still drive a hunk-a-junk, I still can't seem to do my homework, and a bunch of other sobering realities. When I feel this inevitable dread, I'm going think about what I did here and I'm going to think about how my time here has changed my perspective on life. I'm going to think about how when I came here, I was completely terrified and now it's actually hard to remember what was even so scary. I'm going to remember all of the things that I have done in the past four months that I thought I couldn't do. I'm going to use that, and I'm going to make the necessary changes or choices in life that will lead me towards the goal of happiness and fulfillment. I'm going to do my best to stop letting my life tell me what I'm going to do. Easier said than done, but if can even do it a little bit, and not get stuck, then I will have reason to keep trying. I guess one of the most valuable life lessons that I can take away from this experience, is that the old cliche rings true, anything that you want to do is actually possible, if you just decide you want to do it and chip away at what it takes to get there.

But for now, I'm going to try to get some sleep before my exam tomorrow.

Buenos Aires vs Ohio: round 2

I thought of a couple more good ones...

They don't sell textbooks at school, they sell photocopies. Apparently copyright laws don't exist here.

It's actually a common practice to go to a sex hotel. You can rent them by the hour and they are all over the city. No, I didn't go to one, but I know someone who did!

Remember how I told you about the ice cream shops all over the place? Well, they deliver. As a matter of fact pretty much everything can be delivered; empanadas, ice cream, all restaurants, even groceries.

Doctors make house calls.

Windows don't have screens. They have these weird plastic sun shade things with holes that you can pull up or down on the outside of the window.

I'm sure I'll come up with some more for round 3...

A Tour of ESMA

Let me warn you guys right away. This particular blog is not going to be full of sunshine and roses, or kitesurfing and empanadas. It was actually pretty difficult to write. It's going to be full of some harsh realities about some very despicable violations of human rights that took place during the military dictatorship in Argentina from 1976 to 1983. This particular blog will specifically be about the dictatorship that was going on here, in Argentina, because I visited one of the detention centers just a few hours ago, and, well, I'm in Argentina.

However, this type of violent regime was common in all of Latin America around this time period, with variations from case to case. It is a sobering history that has not long since passed. I encourage all of you to do some reading on your own about the topic. Do some Google searches on the internet, I think that your findings will shock you. Pay special attention to US influence and involvement with these regimes, specifically in the case of Chile in 1973. This is a topic that doesn't get much attention in the history classes of the United States, at least not the ones that I went to. I will admit when I came here I knew nothing of what had happened here, of this history of violence. While studying here in Argentina, I have been introduced to the history and the political climate of that period. I am by no means an expert, but I am much more aware. I am of the very strong opinion that these horrific events that took place all over Latin America should be known, and they are something that we should never forget. Please rememeber that I am passing this information onto you as I understand it and as I have been told. I have a very, very, basic understanding. I will do my best, but I'm sure it may reflect opinion and bias. It's hard not to considering the topic, but I suggest you always check things out for yourselves. I added some links at the end of the blog to some websites that have some really good information on the topic if you are interested.

Still reading? Hope so.....

Today, as a part of our history class, we had a tour of a place called ESMA. ESMA stands for "Escuela de Mecanica de la Armada." From the outside, it was a naval mechanics school. On the inside, during the military dictatorship beginning with Jorge Rafael Videla, it functioned as a school, but also as a clandestine detention, torture, and execution center. There were many things going on in the world that played a role in the decision of the military to seize power over the government in 1976. The junta consisted of Army commander general Jorge Rafael Videla, who was also to serve as president, Navy commander admiral Emilio Eduardo Massera, and the Air Force commander Orlando Ramón Agosti. This a complex issue with many links and influences both nationally and internationally, in business, in government, politics, etc., that need to be considered in the understanding of why and how this happened. But basically, very basically, it was a decision made by the military to fight the inner enemy, the inner terrorists who were a threat to their political agenda and ideology, a threat to their country. The idea that a revolution was possible was spreading throughout Argentina. The growing sentiment of the people against military governments was becoming a problem for those figures in government. In the words of Massera himself, he called the dictatorship "...the struggle against subversion and the management of the image of Argentina abroad." Montaneros, ERP, PRT, and other political extremists groups and individuals were targeted. Opponents of the regime were rounded up in the 'Dirty War', which saw thousands of people disappear. The National Commission on the Disappearance of Persons researched and recorded 9000 people "disappeared." However, I have seen sources estimate as high as 30,000 people and this is the number that seems to be used the most by the Argentines I have encountered. This need for total control brought an onslaught of violence through kidnapping, torture, isolation, and usually ended in disappearance.

This detention center we visited was one of 600 centers in Argentina used to enforce the state terrorism policy. It functioned as a detention center until the end of the dictatorship. It continued to function as a school until the year 2004 when President Kirchner ordered the eviction of the military institutions and returned the property to the city of Buenos Aires. It is now used as a museum to preserve the memory, and for the promotion of human rights. It is located on on Libertador Avenue in the northern area of the city. Contrary to what you might think, the premises are in plain site, clearly seen from the street. A high school sits right next door and, as you'll see from the pictures, it is separated from civilian life with only an iron fence. To curb curiosity, the military implemented and enforced a no stopping policy. In fact people were forbidden to walk on the same side of the street. You could drive by, but it was forbidden to stop. If anyone violated these terms the guards had the right to open fire.

Almost everything that is known about how these detention centers functioned has come from the testimonies of the survivors. It is estimated that about 5000 to 7000 detainees passed through this ESMA, although the museum offers no official number. It is estimated that out of those 5000 to 7000, there were about 200 survivors. Still, to this day, the military forces involved maintain their strong pact of silence. It is rumored that this pact of silence is maintained because of two strong factors. First, there are so many people with dirty hands from doctors, students, nurses, families of the officers, friends of the officers, anyone that was employed to keep the center functioning. Second, our tour guide said that breaking this pact of silence has led to disappearance and death (as in the case of the second disappearance of Julio Lopez.) For whatever reason, even now, this silence is still maintained and no official records, files, or documents have been found.

So, essentially what would happen is these people, these inner enemies, is they would be kidnapped for some sort of suspicion or violation by officers of various divisions of armed forces. All divisions were collaborating in the effort to rid Argentina of the enemies of their political ideals. These people were students, professors of universities, journalists, writers, political activists, etc, etc. The process was to kidnap, torture, confine for an undetermined period of time, and lastly transport. There were cases of detainees being released, obviously since there are survivors, but there is no known reason as to why. There doesn't seem to be any common bond between those survivors linking an obvious reason as to why they were chosen.

During the time when Massera was head of the Navy, he implemented something called the "recovery process." As I understand it, this action was motivated by his desire to appear democratic and gain strength in his political agenda. Intelligence was the goal. The recovery process implemented the use of detainees as slave labor to gain the information and political insight that Massera needed at the time. Detainees that had any kind of usefulness in any area might have been put to work. The recovery process gave prisoners the idea that if they cooperated they could be saved. If they cleansed themselves of their tainted political ideals, if they recovered, they would have a better chance of survival. Apparently, it actually had no bearing on whether these detainees were executed or not.

This is a huge complex and the tour consisted of a walk through the grounds past the school, the infirmary, and an inside tour of a building called the Officers Casino. From the outside, it is actually kind of a beautiful place. There are gardens, and the streets are lined with trees, the sun is shining, the wind is blowing. It's hard to believe that this was once such a dark place.

Although the complex is quite large, only a few buildings are in use and functioning as part of the museum. The Officers Casino is the only building that we were allowed to go inside and we were not allowed to take any pictures. The function of this building was to house officers and it was also where the prisoners were detained. There was a disturbing cohabitation going on that suggests it would have been impossible for any officer in the building not to know what was going on. This is where most of the interaction with the detainees took place. This is where they were confined and tortured. It is interesting to see that the building has undergone many structural changes over the years. Our tour guide said this was done to take credibility away from the survivors testimonies. If you know where to look, you can see where the changes were made.

Once inside the building we were taken to the basement. The museum decided not to attempt to recreate the environment inside. The only thing that makes you realize you are in a museum are some maps along the way showing how the rooms were arranged over the years. As well as some explanations and testimonies of survivors. So the basement is empty, it has the smell of cold cement. In addition to being used as a torture chamber, or for certain types of slave labor, this was where the detainees were taken when it was decided that they were to be transferred. To be transferred meant that the detainee was taken to the basement, given a tranquilizer by a doctor on staff, and then loaded into an airplane and dropped into the river while handcuffed and alive. These were called the "death flights" and they were conducted on a weekly, or bi-weekly basis.

From the basement we were taken upstairs to the second floor to see the officers quarters. This is where resident or visiting officers were housed. The place was desolate. It had an institutional feel with tan walls and fluorescent lighting. The same stairway that was used to take the detainees to the basement, was used by resident officers. Since every detainee was shackled with a ball and chain, it would have been impossible for anyone in that building not to hear what was going on. Since every detainee was handcuffed with a sack over their head, it would be impossible for anyone in that building not to see what was going on. Seeing how close some bedrooms were to the stairwell, I wondered what kind of person could sleep soundly next to those sounds.

We were taken up another flight of stairs to the attic, called "capucha," which means "hood." As you might have guessed, the attic is hot. It was uninsulated and I imagine it also got very cold during the winter months. There were just a few windows, the lighting was bad. I felt like I was in the attic of some decrepit old house. All dismal and gloomy and sad. I'm not sure if it was because I knew what happened there, but it was a depressing place to be. I could picture what it must have looked like when it was in use, I could almost see it. This was where the detainees were kept. They laid in coffin-like boxes with hoods, shackles, and handcuffs for hours upon hours. They were allowed to be taken to the bathroom and they were fed. Some detainees would stay here for years, it was an undetermined period of confinement that varied from person to person.

Something unique about ESMA is that it was also home to a clandestine maternity center where the pregnant detainees were taken to give birth after they reached 7 months. On the same attic floor were the maternity wards, just a small room with a window, but a lot better than a wooden box. Many detainees from other centers were also brought here to give birth. It is estimated that around 500 babies were born to detainees during the dictatorship. The museum estimates that about 35 of those babies were born there at ESMA. The protocol was that shortly after the women gave birth, the babies were taken from their mothers and, in most cases, kept by naval officers or members from other repressive forces. This is an example of how many non-military people were involved in this operation. This is an example of how many people dirtied their hands. Doctors and nurses were employed to aid in the delivery of the babies. Families all over the country were given orphaned newborns. If your husband came home with a newborn baby, would you question it? Or would you accept it when he told you that the baby was a gift from god? It is estimated by the museum that approximately 97 of these children have recovered their identities. Unfortunately, their mothers usually suffered the same fate of the rest of the detainees.

In the aftermath of this tradgedy, the government of Argentina has been inconsistent in the prosecution of those responsible. Raul Alfonsín, who was the first president elected after the return to democracy, began the process of holding accountable those responsible. He was the face of justice and democracy for the Argentine people. President Carlos Menem went so far as to pardon everyone, claiming to forgive and move on is what was best for Argentina. When Néstor Kirchner became president the amnesty was lifted and the process of prosecuting those responsible was again under way. Today, many military officers involved are in prison. However, several of these men are old and in poor health so they have been confined to their homes.

So, this is a little snippet of something I've learned while studying in Argentina. It is so incredible to be able to learn about a countries history and be able to live amongst its consequences. Every day I see something relating to this tragedy that passed. I've seen the mothers and grandmothers of the disappeared that still gather every Thursday in Plaza de Mayo, still looking for their family members. I witnessed first hand the funeral procession of former president Alfonsin after he died on March 31st. I walked with fifteen thousand Argentines as they paid their respects to the man who first brought justice after this tragic period. I saw their tears and I heard them sing their anthem and shout "Alfonsin." That experience is indescribable and it is something that will forever be a part of my personal history.



Here are some links to some pages with good information on the topic, if you are interested:
 http://casahistoria.net/post_peron.htm#3 the military

http://unglued.org/timeline/

And here are some links to web albums:

These are pictures of the ESMA tour and facility:

ESMA

These are pictures of the funeral procession of Raul Alfonsin:

New Folder (2)

Buenos Aires vs Ohio

Things here that a just a bit different:

Milk is sold in bags

You can't find pepper in this place. Contrary to popular belief, not all South Americans like spicy food. Here, seasoned = salt (and it's really fine salt...salt dust.)

You won't find anyone on the dance floor until 2am at the earliest. Until then they are all just sitting there listening to the music.

You will see a couple making out somewhere in public at least once a day. Not just a kiss, a full on make out. At first I was grossed out, and now I have a whole new appreciation for the PDA.

There are ice cream shops everywhere. I mean it, many times within a block of one another.

Peoples pets are not generally spayed or neutered.

The preferred Porteño drink is Fernet and Coke.

When you go to a bar you buy beer by the liter.

The kids often come home from school for lunch.

These people eat a lot of pizza.

We can smoke cigarettes at school.

You have to close elevator doors manually.

The breakfast of choice is medialunas (like a croissant but a little sweet)and cafe con leche. Runner up, toast with butter and marmalade.


The weirdest part is that I had gotten the idea for this blog a couple of months ago, but it got pushed aside for other topics. Now, as I write this a month before I leave, I am having a hard time remembering what these things were. They just aren't that different to me anymore.

I know I've got some more of these. I will update this blog when I can remember them.

Check back tomorrow, I think I'll have the a new blog up by bedtime.

Sitting and Thinking

This is one of the things I've had the pleasure of doing during my time here. Just sitting and thinking. This is actually the first time in my very long college career that I've not had to work full-time while going to school full-time. It's pretty incredible really. Out of all the things I'm going to miss about this place, not working is likely to be the first of them. So much so that I almost wish I'd never gotten the taste of it.

So today, I'm sitting here in a tea bar. It has a bright but soft and pleasing atmosphere. Nora Jones plays quietly in the background. Normally that might rub me the wrong way but she seems to complement and actually enhance this environment. I mean, I am drinking some kind of pretentious green tea with aged something or other and hints of this and that blended with the petals of some flower I've never heard of. It does smell delicious in here, and so does this overpriced tea. If I think in US dollars it isn't overpriced, that's what I do when I've spent too much money on something, I think in USD. I say "well that's really only (insert dollar amount here,) so it's not that bad."

I'm sitting here thinking about the time I have left in Buenos Aires. Although I'm more homesick than ever, I can't imagine leaving. I almost can't bare the thought of it. There is so much left to do! I feel like I can't waste a moment sleeping, or showering, or going to school. I must do something "Buenos Aires" at every moment! I still need to see Casa Rosada, the White House of Argentina. I still need to go to the Ecological Reserves, visit all of the museums in the city, go to all of the cool bars, go to all of the wonderful restaurants. My list goes on and on.

I guess the point of coming to live in a place for an extended period of time is that you get to experience a deeper layer of the city. Maybe I won't get to see every touristy thing to see, but I did walk with the funeral procession of the beloved former president Raúl Alfonsín. The man who first brought justice to the people of Argentina by finally prosecuting those who dirtied their hands in the brutally violent military dictatorship that preceded him. I witnessed first hand a little part of history.

I did get interact in the daily lives of porteños (that's what the people of Buenos Aires call themselves, port people.) I got to see how they live, how they behave, what they do. That's what I wanted. Those are the kinds of things you can't get from a two week vacation.

I'm going to miss seeing old people out for their daily walks in the arm of a caretaker or their grown child. I'm going to miss seeing the same chatty homeless lady that lives on either side of Las Heras depending on the time of day. I'm going to miss walking through the park by my house and seeing all the couped up children out to play, and the guy who sets up dozens of miniature easels to teach them how to paint. I'm going to miss my doorman. He greets me and every single time I walk in or out of the building. Every day I start my day with the same friendly face and the same genuine interest in how I'm doing and what I'm up to. I'm going to miss the cat that sleeps in the window of the vet's office on Parana. It's sleeping in the same spot every time. I stop to talk to it sometimes to make sure it's real. I'm going to miss La Cholita, which has come to be one of my favorite restaurants. I'm going to miss my host-family drama.

So, I'm letting myself off the hook today, with Nora Jones as my witness. I may not make it to Brazil, or Machu Picchu, or Patagonia, or Mendoza, or Iguazu Falls, or Casa Rosada, but I did get to experience things that a tourist couldn't manage even if they tried. These are the things I'm really going to miss. These are the things I'm really going to remember. And these are the things I will cherish.

Sorry, I've gone and gotten all nostalgic on you and I haven't even left yet.

Kitesurfing pictures!

Kitesurfing was everything I thought it would be and more. I think I'm just going to post a link to my web album for you guys to look at pictures. I'm so sad to say that my dang camera battery died way before I was ready to stop taking pictures, so I wish I had more for you. However, this is enough to give you just a taste of it.

Enjoy....

First of all, I must tell you that I was very, very nervous about going. Let me be real with you here. I don't speak enough Spanish to hang with a solo Spanish speaking crowd. That was my number one concern. Number two concern, I'm not exactly a resilient spring chicken anymore, if I ever was. Gone are the days when I can get away with doing just about anything physical without consequence. Yes, I suffer now, I suffer crippling muscle pain that makes me painfully aware of the muscles I had forgotten I had. Being embarrassingly out of shape, yes, a major concern. I've also never water skied before, which I thought would be helpful experience to have had. The closest I came was knee boarding, which actually I was very good at so I was hopeful that maybe that experience would carry me through. So, as a result of all these worries, and my annoying little illness, I toyed with the idea of not going, I was very close to oversleeping on purpose. However, as some of you know, one of my better qualities is that I often make myself do things I don't really want to do. Sometimes this turns out to be a blessing, sometimes a curse. In this case, a blessing indeed.

The plan was to meet at 6 am. There were two predetermined locations for pickup. I got there around 6, it was still dark out, I was looking for the girls that should be waiting on the corner. (No, not those kinds of girls.) I find them easily since no one else is awake on a Saturday morning at that very early hour. After about ten minutes the rest of the girls begin to arrive and our van shortly thereafter. Lu, the girl running the girls camp, was as adorable as I had guessed she was from our correspondence and her kitesurf blogs. She jumps out of the van with her sun-bleached, salt-watered hair, and colorful skate shoes, unmistakable surfer girl to the max. Lu Alexandre Dupey is my new hero. She travels around the world teaching people how to kitesurf and she has been to some of the most beautiful beaches I have never seen. This might be my new career change here people. Anyway, after kisses on the cheek and brief introductions we caravan with another van full of girls to Punta Rasa.

A couple of hours pass with sleeping and chatting and bathroom breaks. These girls can talk like you wouldn't believe. There were about 12 girls in a van that had previously never met each other acting as if they're the best of buds. I've noticed the people of Buenos Aires make friends fast. The kiss on the cheek seems to break the ice and from that point on, everyone is friends. Another example of one of the many differences of our cultures.

We arrive in Punta Rasa and take a long and bumpy dirt road through the ecological reserves, destination beach. The road finally opens up to the water. On the left you have the Rio de la Plata and to the right you have the Atlantic Ocean. There is quite literally a small corner bank of sand that divides the two bodies of water. The river has warm, calm waters, and the ocean is comparatively choppy and cool. Truly an incredibly beautiful place.

This event was sponsored by a bunch of big companies whose presence was much more obvious than I had expected. After the water, the second thing that caught my eye was the giant blue eyesore of a Red Bull tent. After I realized we had an endless supply of Red Bulls I reevaluated my initial instinct to complain. I actually became quite grateful of the presence of sponsors when we had our gift giveaway on the second day. I scored some funky Mormaii sunglasses, an Isabel la Católica t-shirt, and a goody bag full of Nivea products. I love free stuff! There were even several drawings for cute shoes, more t-shirts, and a kitesurfing board, none of which I won. Of course.

So, day one continued. We load up on sunscreen, and sit on the sand for our lesson in how to kite surf. Lu had printed out a translated kitesurfing how-to manual prior to departure so I could read it on the trip. I must say this kind of increased my fear factor. They talk a lot about kitesurfing being a extreme sport and as a result quite dangerous. They put the fear of the kite into you.

After our little lecture about wind, kite positioning, safetly, and control, none of which I understood but one of the girls translated the important parts, we started with the practice kites. Small kites, but even with the small ones you could feel the power! It was amazing, wind is amazing! If you get that kite in the "power zone" it just takes you! Turns out, I'm kind of a natural, and had no reason to worry. This is one of my super powers, being good at most things the first couple of times I try them. After that it either goes one way or the other. I think I may truly have a knack for this kitesurfing though. Especially after seeing that the majority of these ladies had problems even keeping the kite in the air, let alone controlling it while it was up there.

By the end of day one I was in harness and strapped to my first real kite! Unfortunately it's kind of a slow learning process. Especially in this type of group setting. In order to be safe you have to go through the motions of practice kite on the beach, to supervised body drags in the water. Only after you prove your worth in those areas do you get to make an attempt with the board. By the end of the first day, I'd gotten about half way there. I was hopeful for the next day, and very excited.

The sun went down, the beach got cold, and we got hungry, so we made our way into town. In order of importance; we swam in the heated pool, we showered, we ate, we slept. I bunked with three awesome gals. Chelu, Juliana, and Lu were kind enough to take me under their wings. They'd even speak to me in English every once in awhile! After dinner everyone was tired and sunburned so went to our respective rooms and rested up for the next morning. I was so pleased to sleep in a queen bed after spending the last few months on a twin. I'm so spoiled!

Day two, unfortunately, was not full of kitesurfing excitement. The problem with kitesurfing, as with any other hobby/sport that depends on the wind, is sometimes there just isn't any. Day two was one of those days. So after our present distribution at the hotel, we spent a relaxing day on the beach. We ate empanadas, we went for walks, we took pictures, we talked, we napped, we tried to keep practice kites in the air, we swam, we waited for the wind, we just couldn't kitesurf. But of course, at about 8 or 9 pm, just as we began to pack up the vans, in came the wind. With the arrival of the wind, Lu hit the water, along with a couple of other die-hard kitesurfers. We had the pleasure of watching some really awesome kitesurfing with a beautiful sunset in the backdrop.

Moral of this story is, if you ever get the chance, definitely go kitesurfing. And if you're looking for me this summer back in Ohio, I'll be the one kitesurfing on Lake Erie.

Pictures!!!!

http://picasaweb.google.com/Alig1981/KiteCamp?authkey=Gv1sRgCPvdobuVtdLDzwE&feat=directlink

View it as a slide show, it looks much better!

Kitesurfing in Punta Rasa

Hello dear friends and readers! I know it has been too long! So much is going on I don't even know where to begin.

First of all, I have gone and gotten sick again. This time I have a cold. So far nothing major but it's so frustrating that I can't manage to stay healthy here! I feel pretty well adjusted to the lifestyle, not particularly stressed out or anything. I wonder what is making me so susceptible to illness? My best guess is different bugs, lots of people, and lots of bad air in the city.

Anyway, I've had this weekend trip planned that has been postponed twice already. Of course, it is looking like this Saturday is the day this trip will finally be happening and I am sick. I am still going, I'll take a bunch of dayquil and suffer through! The trip is an all girls kitesurfing camp in Punta Rasa.
I have stolen this picture off of the internet to show you what kite surfing is, and to make you a little jealous. Looks fun doesn't it?

So it's a decent sized group of ladies going to kitsurf in Punta Rasa. The girl that's running the camp, Lu, seems really lively and it sounds like this is going to be a lot of fun. As well as a good opportunity to speak some Spanish, which is always good. We will leave early Saturday morning for Punta Rasa, which is located at the southern tip of the Bay Samborombón and the northern tip of Cape San Antonio in Buenos Aires, Argentina. It is the outer boundary of the Rio de La Plata, the exact point where the water mixes with the Atlantic Ocean. I haven't seen the ocean yet since I've been here so I'm excited just for that reason! Buenos Aires sits inside a little nook of the Rio de la Plata, so that's all you see here from the city.

All I really know about this camp is that we have a heated pool at the hotel, food, equipment, and lodging are provided, and by the time I come home on Sunday I will be able to say that I have been kitesurfing.

I will take lots of pictures and let you know how this little adventure turns out.

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

Our final excursion is all said and done, I'm sad to say. There are so many things to see and just not enough time to see them! Now I can scratch Colonia, Uruguay off my list. Although I loved it so much I think I might have to go back for a weekend before I come home.

The excursion itinerary: take the Buquebus to Colonia for a day of shopping, swimming, laying in the sun, and eating.

Luli, our lovely little friend, who is now our "Panrimo Coordinator" since Tony has gone back to the US, was our designated tour guide. We met Luli at 9am and made our way to the port. To go to Uruguay from Argentina you take a ferry boat. You can take the slow boat, which gets you across the Rio de la Plata in about 3 hours. Or, you can take the fast boat, which is more expensive, but it gets you to Uruguay in about an hour. Thankfully we took the fast boat, and it was pretty fast. The boat is equipped with airplane style seating and its very own duty-free store. You should have seen these people go crazy over perfume and candy. I've never seen such a shopping frenzy.
By 12:30pm we were in Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. Walking from the port to the town it was easy to see that we weren't in the city anymore. Colonia is the oldest town in Uruguay and it is full of history. The Barrio Histórico is actually a very popular destination for tourists. Colonia was founded by Portugal in 1680 but rule over this territory was in almost constant dispute with Spain until its independence in 1928. It went back and forth between the Spanish and Portuguese by conquer or treaty. It was even taken over by Brazil for about 7 years. Needless to say, its development has had the unique influence of both countries.

So enough with the history right? On to the crazy adventures!

Well we didn't actually have any CRAZY adventures. We did rent a golf cart type vehicle (only better) built for four, which was one of the highlights of the trip for me. It turns out the good/clean beaches are a couple of miles outside of the historical neighborhood. So we got some food, got on the cart, and headed to the beach with me at the wheel and Bennett in the passenger seat telling me what to do. As soon as we made it up the hill outside of the city blocks we got our first view of the beaches. It was beautiful! We found a good spot and we got in the water.

While we were in the water the clouds started to roll in. We made our way to the bar on the beach and as soon as we hit the door the winds picked up. The storms here are incredible. They start with these intense winds that seem to come out of nowhere, the rain follows soon after and none of it seems to last very long. The wind was tearing through this little bar patio but it was incredible to watch. The entire storm lasted maybe an hour and then the sun was shining again.

The rest of our evening consisted of shopping and dinner. One dollar is about 25 Uruguayos so shopping required some math. We were dealing with dollars, Argentine pesos, and Uruguayos. It was very confusing.

We got a wonderful recommendation for dinner that evening so we wined and dined. The food was delicious. I had steak medallions with mashed pumpkins. I'm sorry I didn't get a picture of this meal, it was truly a site to behold.

After dinner we had to power walk back to the Buquebus to make our 10:30 departure. We almost didn't get on the boat on time because Bennett was receiving a bit of harassment from the guys at the little customs desk. Unfortunately for Bennett he is unmistakably American. At 6 foot something he is probably one of the tallest guys they've ever seen here (is second toe is as long as my pinkie finger.)and he has a Minnesota t-shirt for every day of the week. Anyway, they were claiming he didn't have a stamp on his passport from Argentina, which was not true, we figured out afterwards that he was probably just wanting some money. I've decided the best way to deal with this kind of situation is to stand up for yourself and don't give anybody anything, ever. Every time I've felt like I was getting ripped off in some way, the second I spoke up about it they resolved the situation. I think they just kind of hope you'll become flustered and do something stupid.

So that's all she wrote. It was not nearly enough time to get spend in Colonia. If I were going again I would go for a weekend or take an earlier boat in the morning. It's a beautiful place that deserves more than just a few hours of exploration.

School is in session

It has been for a couple of weeks now, we started on February 2nd I believe. It has been an adjustment to say the least. I'm learning the best way to acclimate is with a go-with-the-flow kind of attitude.

We've had a few kinks that needed to be worked out. For example, we had to change rooms three times. First there was too much of an echo, so we switched to a quieter room. The quieter room was next to the bathroom that is under construction. The noises were a little distracting so we moved to a room that was farther away. The farther away room is on the busy side of the street. It was impossible to hear the lecture over the traffic noises. Unfortunately, having the windows closed was not an option due to the sweltering heat and absence of air conditioning. We finally settled on a room that had little or no noise pollution, of any kind. Now we just have to share the classroom with some pigeons who have built their nest on the fluorescent. These windows don't close, so we just have to make sure we aren't sitting in the drop zone.

Another minor setback, one of the classes for which we are supposed to be instructed in English, is now taught in Spanish. After we postponed for a week, Tony and the University of Buenos Aires found a more than adequate solution. We have the most amazing translator now, although only for a few weeks. I actually think working with a translator is really improving my Spanish. I now have confirmation that I am correctly, or incorrectly as it may be, interpreting what someone is saying. Something that I have found to be continuously frustrating, is that there is never someone there to tell me, word for word, what is being said so that I can immediately associate meaning to the sounds I'm hearing. I think having a translator will fill in a lot of gaps in my knowledge of the language.

I don't want to give you the wrong idea here. I am by no means discouraged by any part of these little bumps in the road to higher learning. I was fully aware that we would be the first students studying at La UBA under Panrimo's direction and I expected that we might need to make adjustments.

All I care about is that we are learning, and that we are. I would say my Spanish has improved beyond words, and there is so much to learn about Latin American history and politics. When talking to various people I have met around the city, I have heard nothing but good things about La UBA's Social Sciences department. Actually, I have heard more than once, that it has the best department of all the schools in the city. So we have to put up with a little ring around the classroom, a little bird poop, no working bathrooms, and a lot of construction. We are getting a damn good education.

Seriously though, the bathroom situation will hopefully be resolved in two weeks when the rest of the city goes back to school. I will keep you posted on that.

And now, for some pictures......

Tango Excursion!

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You can't go anywhere in Buenos Aires without being confronted by tango in some form or another. I've read that Argentina is the birthplace of tango, originating in the streets amongst the immigrant populations during the late 19th century. Walking down the street I hear the familiar sounds of tango music blaring from a passing taxi, I see stores selling tango shoes scattered here and there. Posters advertising shows, studios, or lessons pop up just about everywhere I go.

San Telmo is the neighborhood known for its tourist attracting tango shows. This is where we decided to go for our tango excursion. Now, these shows are a dime a dozen in San Telmo. You pretty much just walk around until you find one that appeals to you most. These shows are all unique and there is a good amount of variety to choose from. You can see a show at a small little mom and pop type of venue. Or, you could choose to see a more grandiose tango production. You can find shows that include dinner with the price of your ticket, which is what we did, or you can find shows that include a couple of drinks.

We followed Tony around for a few blocks while he scoped out the spots. We settled on a show that included dinner, although I hear after the fact that the food is usually bad. Luckily, our food was not terrible. We arrived a little late and the show started about 15 minutes after our arrival so we had to eat in the dark.

Our chosen venue had about 30 tables that surrounded three sides of a small stage. I gather that this place is run by an elderly couple that were obviously overseeing things. The decor and costumes had a sort of dated feel. It was a very intimate setting with people from all over the world (the host of the show inquired about where everyone lived, we were the only Americans!)

This tango show was great, very flashy and showy. They had a tango band of piano, violin, bandoneon, and double bass. The bandonean is the coolest instrument. It is a square shaped sibling of the accordion that is played sitting down. The sound comes from pushing and pulling the instrument while pressing buttons. It appears to be played over the bandoneonist's leg and that the sound is also manipulated by leg movements. I have definitely never seen this instrument in the United States.



The show was a mixture of tango dance and song. Three couples danced and there were three different singers. Each of the dancers and singers had their own unique style. I am surprised at how important the tango music is to the culture of Buenos Aires. Tango music seems to be more popular here than the dance. Many people sing tango and it seems that everyone listens to it. I never realized before spending time here that the music of tango is an art form all its own.

We had a great time at the show. After it was over the lights came on and the dancers came down and brought people from the audience to dance on stage. We tried not to get chosen as none of us dance very well. After Tony's urging I got up and danced with the waiter for the last few minutes of the song. It was pretty hilarious and very memorable. I only wish someone had gotten a picture when he dipped me.


(thanks for the photos Bennett!)

Empanadas

They are the perfect food. Here in Buenos Aires, I can eat them every day. Now I'm not talking about some caramel apple empanada from Taco Bell here people. I'm talking about the real thing. They are practically every food group wrapped up into one little tasty package. The varieties seem endless, sweet or savory.
Last night, I had a tuna empanada for the very first time.



Sometimes they are fried, sometimes they are baked, sometimes they are shaped like giant tortellinis, sometimes they are shaped like hostess fruit pies, but this I am sure they are always delicious. Some other fun facts about empanadas are: they only cost around 2,50 pesos (that's around $0.73 usd), you can find them just about everywhere you go, they are considered to be a national dish of Argentina, and, last but not least, you can have them delivered to your door just like pizza.

It's the little things

It's the little things that make you happy when you are in a another country and you don't speak the language. Suddenly I'm happy when I order food and I'm not surprised by what they bring me. I'm also happy when I ask someone where the bank is and their response actually makes sense to me. I'm especially happy when I go to the store to buy something and I actually know how much the total is instead of handing them the largest amount of pesos my purchase could logically be.

This being said you can imagine my elation when I tell you that I successfully purchased two pairs of glasses with corrective lenses for about $55 each. To give you a little back story, I decided when I came here that I was going use the strength of the dollar to expand my collection of eye glasses. Since my arrival in Buenos Aires I have been patiently gathering information about the costs and styles of frames, etc. I had been unpleasantly surprised, until yesterday, to find that due to inflation the cost of frames were more or less the same as in the United States.

However, yesterday I found a little side street off the beaten path of tourists and shoppers. I wandered by several eye glass shops and noticed that the prices were actually in the windows, this I found to be a good sign. I've noticed in many shops here that are not run by large companies or corporations, the price is not displayed in the window. I get the feeling sometimes that when they realize that I am quite obviously an American, and I don't have my way with the Spanish language, then I am immediately given the "foreigner" mark up. I'd like to point out here that I don't attribute this solely to being and American in Argentina, but also that I am living in a big city and dealing with a big city mentality here. It's a dog eat dog world in the big city and I don't quite look like I belong.

So, I liked the prices I was seeing, around 100 pesos per frame. The selections were small but predominantly modern and trendy styles. The last shop I walked by was looking promising but I was lacking the confidence to go in and butcher my way through talking about glasses. Then I decided this, I can either wait around for someone who speaks Spanish to come with me and hold my hand through the process, or I can go in, try to do it myself, and learn from my mistakes. I decided that I can either wait around until I have had a month or two more of Spanish so I can communicate perfectly or I can go in there and use what I've got and have myself an experience. So I turned around and went in.

Here is how it went. I very basically explained that I didn't speak Spanish very well and I was looking at frames. This adorable little old man understood and seemed to be eager to assist me. He also seemed more than happy to use his very small vocabulary of eyeglass salesman appropriate English words.

I tried on a few frames and in all of 15 minutes I had found two frames that I liked, found out the prices of lenses, and talked him down 100 pesos. Well it wasn't really talking exactly, I would write down a price and he would write down another counter offer which we finally settled on. I walked out of there with a partial eye exam to make sure my prescription was correct and two pairs of glasses with light-weight lenses that had anti-reflective coating for about 100 usd. Can't get that done in the US even with insurance. Success!

La Pampa

Our first weekend excursion is all said and done. What a weekend we had. I had no idea what was in store for us in La Pampa, in Rojas to be exact. Kind of like when go see a movie having no idea what it's about. No expectations or preconceived notions to taint my perspective. This one turned out to be filled with culture, food, tradition, relaxation, education. I was pleasantly surprised.

We headed for Rojas early Friday morning. It was about a three hour car ride to the country, or "el campo" in Castellano (the type Spanish spoken here in Argentina.) I got us off to a good start, oversleeping and putting us about an hour off schedule. For once I was thankful for the Argentine style of driving, fast and purposeful, to put it nicely. Consequently, we were back on schedule in no time. Mario, along with his wife Marianna, were our gracious hosts and tour guides for the weekend. Mario is jovial man with a wealth of knowledge and a passion for speaking his mind. He doesn't speak a lick of English but the meaning of his words are often easy to understand in spite of the language barrier. I have noticed that most Argentines are animated speakers. They do a lot of talking with their hands. I don't mean simple gestures to emphasize their point but actually acting out words with their hands. I find this to be very helpful in figuring out what people are talking about.

Our first stop was a place called INTA, the National Institute of Farming Technology. In short, INTA is a government run research and development center for agriculture in Argentina. Their purpose is to aid Argentina in agricultural development while having minimal impact on the environment. Another one of their goals is to facilitate in helping small farmers produce better crops. The branch that we visited in Pergamino is only one of many in Argentina. We met Miguel, a director of this facility, who taught us about the goals and purpose of INTA while we passed around the Yerba Mate. It is evident that INTA and those who are involved with it take immense pride in their country and what it provides them. They seemed very excited to have us there, excited to share with us what they do for their country. We were even put on their website the very next day! Check us out.
http://www.inta.gov.ar/pergamino/info/prensa/inst/2009/vis_univers_090123.htm

Now, for those of you who don't know about Yerba Mate, allow me to enlighten you. It is a drink of health, friendship, and tradition introduced by the Guarani of South America, as I understand it. It is still a common ritual in parts of South America today. It is customarily shared from a hollowed out gourd with a metal straw and is passed around the table. In addition to being a social activity, it has numerous health benefits. I believe it to have cured my stomach sickness! We did a lot of sharing of the Yerba Mate during our weekend in el campo. I even came home with my very own gourd and bombilla (bom-bee-sha = metal straw.) It is very common to see people walking around with their Mate equipment, even here in Buenos Aires.

After we left INTA, we went to a private seed corn plant that is also in Pergamino, Argentina. This place was massive, a grand scale production. I learned more than I ever thought I would about the trials and tribulations of seed corn. Poor Bennett felt like he was back on the farm in Minnesota. It was an impressive operation, but the unfortunate heat that day hindered my true appreciation of the plant. Luckily we were only a few minutes drive from Mario's farm and just a few minutes away from the refreshment of the swimming pool.

Needless to say we spent a lot of time in that swimming pool. We also spent a lot of time eating. Mario and Mariana fed us some noteworthy meals. The traditional breakfast of Argentina is toast and coffee. Lunch is usually empanadas or something comparable. Dinner is the biggest meal of the day and is rarely eaten before 9pm. I don't know what it is but these Argentines just don't quit. We consistently stayed up until at least 4am with no sign of fatigue from any of the natives. Meanwhile, Americans were quite obviously struggling to keep up.

The first night we had a true asado. The cow was one of Mario's, killed a few days earlier. I had my first experience eating weird animal parts, the intestines and kidneys were served first. I tried them, but I can't say that I liked it. The flavor of this beef is unlike any I have ever tasted. First of all I've probably never had beef that fresh, and secondly, I think that much of the distinct flavor comes from the way the meat is cooked. I don't know if I said this before but Argentines love their beef. By the end of the weekend I was joking that the official dish of Argentina is bife con dulce de leche. They also love their dulce de leche, kind of a sugary version of caramel sauce.

My favorite meal was the second night. We had lamb. For the first time in my life I actually witnessed first hand the killing of my food. I didn't intend to actually watch this, in fact Mario and Tony had asked if I wanted to and I said no. However, I was out riding one of Mario's horses and just happened to walk by as Luis went into the sheep pen to lasso one up. After that, curiosity got the best of me and I had to see it through. I have never seen anything like it in my life! I watched the entire process from start to finish and it really made me aware of what it takes for me to eat meat. I am, as I think most people are, so detached from my food and where it comes from. Now I can't imagine what kinds of things happen to the meat that we eat and how old it must be. It really got me thinking. The lamb was served and ready to eat about 4 hours after it was killed. I will also say, hands down, that was the best meat I have ever tasted in my life.

So as I write this it seems like all we did was eat! I assure you there were plenty of other activities. In addition to eating and swimming we rode horses, went shopping, went on moonlit walks, danced, listened to the music. Rachel brought her guitar and her beautiful voice so we had the pleasure of her entertainment after dinner.

All the while we were greatly improving our Spanish speaking and comprehension. Everyone was so patient and helpful as we tried, and sometimes struggled, to learn. Tony was our tireless translator for the weekend often having to tell stories twice and fill in tidbits of conversations. I don't know how many times he must have heard the three of us ask him "Tony, how do say .....?"

All in all it was an unforgettable experience. A much needed break from the stress of living and adjusting to the city. A nice little taste of the rest of Argentina.

I don't even know what day it is!

Isn't that great? Classes don't even start for at least another week. I've just been shopping and walking and eating and enjoying life. People here really enjoy life. You can't get a coffee to-go in this place. Which is a big change for me, working at Starbucks I always have a cup in my hand. You can sit down at the cafe and you can take the time to drink your coffee. Not the sit down with your laptop for hours and work while you drink coffee. Just sit down and drink your coffee and enjoy. Such a drastically different way of life.



I'm getting ready right now to go to La Pampa for a weekend excursion with the rest of the students. The rest of the students being Rachel and Bennett (and get this, Rachel is from Akron!). Just the three of us. I'm happy there is such a small group of students. I get this feeling like we are all in it together. We have this unique bond of our location, our discomfort and our determination to go through with this.

So anyway, we are headed to La Pampa, a province of Argentina. From what I understand, the Pampas (from Quechua, meaning "plain") are the fertile South American lowlands that include the Argentine provinces of Buenos Aires, La Pampa, Santa Fe, and Córdoba, most of Uruguay, and the southernmost end of Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul. The fertility is due to the temperate climate, making La Pampa the most economically agricultural province of Argentina. Ximena told me all I need to know about La Pampa is that it is hot and dry. It will be nice to get away from the city and see what some of the rest of Argentina is like. Being the horse-girl that I am, I'm really hoping to see some Gauchos in the flesh. I'll keep you posted.

Last night was a real treat. I experienced, in person, some of that reputed Argentine pride that I've been hearing so much about. Tony arranged a lovely dinner with his host family. The same family that hosted him years ago when he first stayed in Buenos Aires. Rachel has the pleasure of staying there this time around. I was in the company of some really wonderful people. These are the kind of people that allow you love people again. Ramon and Marta, parents to three grown daughters, have a beautiful home in Balvanera. This place felt so authenic. I looked around and I felt so aware that I was not at home. I have never seen ceilings so high, 20 feet more or less? The doorways were built to scale with thick, embellished molding. The elevator was imported from Paris in 1915, so intricately designed. This building, standing since 1918, has such a rich history.

The conversation was enlightening, and amusing, and thought provoking, and challenging. Ramon speaks better English than my Spanish but still pretty rough around the edges. Marta has a small English vocabulary of about 10 words. On the American side: Tony is fluent in both, Bennett is confident, Rachel has a cute little mixture going on, I am not confident but but full of questions and ears always perked. There was an exhausting and hilarious mixture of broken English, broken Spanish, and the correct forms of each. Tony made a point to gently remind everyone, and encourage us, to use our Spanish speaking skills when we'd revert back to English. I felt like I really made some progress! I am beginning to finally understand what people are saying!

The Spanish of Argentina is very different than what you hear in the states. The accent is very unique, many of the words are not the same, and the "ll" and "y" are pronounced "zhhh" (like the sound in vision) instead of the "y" sound that I'm used to (like young.) Add a new sound to trying to distinguish the beginning of a new word and the ending of another, a challenge to say the least.

I can't say enough good things about learning language through immersion. Hearing the words over and over again and giving them relevance in everyday life gives you no choice but to learn. You need them to live. To make life more comfortable. I don't want to walk 50 blocks so I'm going to learn how to tell the taxi where I want to go. Today for example, I almost got ripped off, but I knew how to count and I knew what she said and I knew she owed me more money. Funny thing is she did too. The second I turned around to walk over and resolve the issue it was apparent she knew exactly why I was coming back. I got my two pesos, but I week ago I wouldn't have even known they were mine.

Day 5

I can't believe I have been here five days! So far things are going really well. Minor set back last night. I got some sort of stomach flu that has kept me in bed for 24 hours now. Ximena (my host mother) seems to think it is due to all the change, and the stress and excitement. We had been out dancing til 4am the night before. I thought it might have been food poisoning but no one else that I ate with got sick, so who knows. The water is fine to drink here, everybody does, but maybe there is some different bacteria in there that my body is not friends with yet. Hopefully I am on the mend and can continue my exploration of the city tomorrow.

So far my host family has been wonderful. I am staying with a forty-something mother (Ximena) and her four children (Vicente 15, Alfredo 12, Eugenia 8, and Sebastian 20 months.) It took a little while to warm up to Ximena but we finally broken the ice. I brought a Cleveland mug for her from Starbucks and I don't think I could have chosen a better gift. Apparently she loves mugs, she gets one whenever she goes somewhere new, and especially likes larger ones like the one I got her. I highly recommend you bring a gift if and when you go to live in someones home that you don't know. Ever since then, we've been buds. Everyone in my house speaks English, I'm sad and also happy to report. All except for the two girls that help around the house. Which is good, at least I have to try to figure out how to communicate with them. I effectively told one of them, on my first day no less, that I wanted to go for a walk and I needed a key.

From what I gather it is pretty easy to have maids and nanny's here is Buenos Aires. A luxury in the states that seems pretty common here. Something I could really get used to. On my first morning here, I was sitting up on the terrace (which I will talk more about in a moment because it is really great) and the rest of the family was still sleeping. One of the girls that works here asked me if I wanted coffee. Of course I said yes, I had just spent two days of travel suffering from caffeine withdrawals. Ten minutes later she comes back up with a tray of toast, coffee, and melon! I felt like that was the greatest thing I had been given in a very long time! Everything here in my house that is eaten away from the table is served on these cute little trays. I am guessing this is a cultural thing. It is definitely something I plan on incorporating into my life in the states. There are also these cute little dishes for everything. A little dish for your fork and spoon, one for the tea bag, one with a little butter. I love it. You know what else is different? Mayonnaise and such condiments come in a bag. This is another thing I I love about traveling, these subtle differences in terms of everyday life.

I experienced my first asado already. Asado is the traditional dish of Argentina and some other countries in South America. It is basically a variety of grilled meats. Ours was prepared a la parrilla, one of the ways in which an asado is cooked. We had chorizo, some chicken kabobs, and of course beef. The food was incredible. Here is a little tidbit about asado courtesy of Wikipedia if you are interested in knowing more: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asado. This is a big deal in Argentine culture and what a treat it was. Ximena's home has a beautiful terrace on top of the entire house and the grill is built right into the wall.

A little more about the terrace, it is definitely the coolest part of the house. As with most big cities there aren't any yards or tree lawns here so having a terrace like this on your home is enviable I'm sure. There is a small pool, tons of plants and trees and a kitchenette and bathroom of its own. Perfect for entertaining, which was also the motivation for the asado the other night. A friend of Ximena's was celebrating a birthday. It was such an interesting mix of people from everywhere: Ireland, Canada, US, Russia, Croatia. All of whom now reside in Buenos Aires. I was told these people are referred to as expats or expatriates, which are people who take up residence in a foriegn country. I really had a great time talking with this diverse group of people and hearing their different perspectives. It was truly a memorable experience. Number one question about America? Why do Americans talk about work so much. Followed closely by: why are Americans in such a hurry? There is definitely a more relaxed approach to life here in Buenos Aires. It seems like people here take the time to enjoy life a little more, they live in the moment. Another thing that I could definitely get used to.

So much more to talk about but I have to keep you wanting more! Tomorrow I plan on going to the Cemeterio de la Recoleta, a very important cemetery here where Eva Peron is buried. It is just a few blocks away within my neighborhood, which is also called Recoleta. I will try to post some pictures as well.

Caio!

Update: pictures!

I have arrived safely in Buenos Aires in spite of the shortcomings of air travel. I believe my plane took off and landed two times in addition to the scheduled three due to equipment failure of both plane and passenger. Oh the joys of flying! But I am grateful for its existence, as annoying as it can be. How else would I be able to go to sleep in Ohio one night, and in Argentina the next? The last leg of the flight was long. It has taken over the previous number one spot for my longest flight ever, 8 hours to France. After Huston it was 10+ hours of broken sleep, movies you’d never have bothered to see otherwise, and lots of turbulence. And then finally……bienvenidos Buenos Aires!

The airport was very easy to navigate. Customs was a breeze. My bag was lost and I successfully filed the claim. I can only hope it will arrive tomorrow morning as promised. I was surprised to find how many Argentines speak English. As obvious tourists approached the claim desk, I observed that they were spoken to in English first. Whether this is just an airport phenomenon remains to be seen. Now, I have actually had two successful semesters of college Spanish. Those classes feel practically worthless to me now. I find myself concentrating so hard on understanding what people are saying to me that I freeze when I am expected to respond. My mind goes blank and all I can do is stand there with a bewildered look on my face. I can’t even muster a “no entiendo.” This has been one of the biggest stressors so far. It is embarrassing more than anything else. These people are bilingual at least and I can’t even engage them in the most basic conversations. However, I must keep in mind that this is why I’m here, to be uncomfortable, to broaden my perspective, to learn.

So I walk through the sliding doors and I immediately recognize my people. The smiling, welcoming faces of Luli and Tony were a sight for sore eyes. I’m sure they were delighted to see me too, they were waiting at least two hours for my arrival. Luli is a small and sweet native who is working with Tony to help the students in our group get acclimated. She immediately greeted me with a kiss on the left cheek. Here I’d like to mention that this is one of my favorite things about traveling abroad, discovering how people greet each other. It is so much more genuine and intimate than the insincere handshake of America, and it is always a little different everywhere I’ve been.

This was also the first time I had actually met Tony. We have been communicating via email and telephone for about three months now and it was great to finally meet him. He has been my sole contact with Panrimo and he has been amazing. One of the reasons I decided to go with Panrimo, a small company as opposed to the bigger more reputable study abroad companies, was the hope of a more personal relationship. It has so far been a 100% positive experience working with them. I am really appreciating the one- on-one help that I am getting from Tony and Panrimo. This program was definitely the right fit for me so far. I think this small group of students and the personal relationship I have with Panrimo will really enrich my study abroad experience.

Tomorrow’s topic: my host family and the strangeness of living with strangers. I need my luggage to continue so I can charge my computer so cross your fingers! By the way, some comforts of home that I am glad I brought with me: my computer and my pillow. Sweet dreams…….

Two days to go........

...and I am definitely stressed.

Not only am I moving to another country for 4.5 months, but I had to move out of my apartment that I've lived in for 3 years, and quit my job that I've had for just as long. Those things alone are known to be stressful events in a persons life. Lump them all together and you've got tears, breakdowns, exhaustion, etc, etc. Although I must say, I am very proud of myself for tackling my to do list in what I think was a timely manner. There are lots of things to do in preparation for an adventure like this. Unfortunately, it seems that something else is added immediately after I scratch something off and the list never seems to get smaller. Fortunately, both Panrimo and CSU provided me with study abroad orientation materials to assist me in managing the daunting preparations.

In the beginning it was lots of paperwork and mailing documents and making travel arrangements and sending emails to Panrimo and CSU. It was deciding what to do with all of my belongings and my car and my cat. It was figuring out the finances and making a savings plan and finding things around the house that I could sell to raise money for your trip.

Then, it was a lot of waiting. There was a little while there when the semester was over, I hadn't moved yet, and the holiday season had arrived, where it pretty much just felt like the same old thing. This was just the calm before the storm. Once I moved out of my apartment I was painfully aware that my life was dramatically changing which, quite frankly, made me pretty anxious.

These last couple of weeks I have spent tieing up loose ends. When you leave for 4.5 months you have to do everything that might need to be done in the that time before you leave. And as it turns out, life goes on without me here in Ohio while I'm gone. I still have to pay those credit card bills. I am still responsible for the well-being of my animal. I still have a family, a boyfriend, and friends that I will need to find a way to communicate with while I'm gone.

I am happy to report that these last few days are allowing for my stress to dissolve into excitement. My friends at work had a going away party for me and then my family did the same. Having all of those who are close to me come together on my behalf to celebrate my upcoming departure allowed my focus to shift. They wanted to ask me questions about my trip, share their excitement, joke about their jealousy, and express their concerns. I realized that I am ready to be excited. I am prepared for this. I am in the midst of a period in my life that will probably change me in a very profound way, and I am officially excited.

As my departure approaches things continue to fall into place. I received word today from Tony (whose official title is: Tony Amante Schepers, Director of University Relations at Panrimo.com) about my host family. I must admit, this was a huge topic of concern for me. I believe strongly that the relationship one has with their host family could make or break a study abroad experience. I am thrilled to report that the family I was placed with seems to be a perfect fit for me based on the description Tony gave. My host mother, Ximena, is considering buying an iguana, but will wait to meet me first. I have a really good feeling about this.

I was thinking earlier about when I first became interested in study abroad. I remembered the reason why I chose not to go. At the time, I didn't think it seemed possible to make the necessary changes that would enable me to leave my life behind for awhile. The interesting thing to me is, nothing much has changed about my life. I simply decided I was going to do it. What I have realized as a result, which is a very valuable lesson for me, is that all you really have to do is make the decision and the rest has a way of working itself out.

Next topic.....packing. I don't even know where to begin.

This is the beginning

I must say, it really was starting to feel like January would never come. Up to this point it hasn't even seemed real. It just seemed like one of those things that you want to do, and you talk about it, but it never actually happens. It just kind of fizzles away. Not this, this is real and the time is here and I'm leaving in 10 days. I fly out of Cleveland on the 15th, I have a layover in New Jersey, and I arrive in Buenos Aires on the 16th after about 18 hours of travel.

The seed was planted about a year ago.

Studying abroad is something I have wanted to do for a long time but after meeting with someone in the study abroad office last year and looking at some programs, it was obvious that it was financially out of reach for me. Even with the $5000 scholarship I had been awarded it just wasn't enough. So, I resigned myself to the idea that the only world travel I do would be for vacation purposes only.

A semester came and went and I was contacted by the study abroad office. Just a gentle reminder that deadlines were approaching and the scholarship money was still available for me to use. This, of course, got me interested once again. This is when I found Panrimo.

I knew two things. I knew I wanted to go to a Spanish speaking country and I knew I wanted to keep my costs down. Julie (my saint of a study abroad advisor) told me about this new company that had been at the study abroad fair at CSU. They were offering customizable programs which enabled them to keep costs down, and they had a program in Argentina. This was music to my ears. Just so you all know, picking out a study abroad program is a daunting task. Comparing options, and prices, and excursions, and courses, etc, etc quickly becomes overwhelming. I was intrigued by Panrimo, so I gave them a call.

I talked to Paul first and then Tony and I was sold. I got the impression that these guys had been there, done this, and they are trying to make things better for people like me. They had been students studying abroad and realized that things could be done better. I was happy that someone else agreed that these other companies are overcharging. So I chose to go with Panrimo. I chose them not just because they were inexpensive but mostly because I liked what they were trying to do, keep the experience of study abroad within reach, keep it personal, keep it real.